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Drumbeats from Africa - Week 3
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22 July : Tanzania : NGORONGORO IS FANTASTIC!!!
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Arriving on the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater late in the afternoon, the PETRONAS Adventure Team could only look into the crater; the gates were already closed and the sun was setting. A great view from the lodge where we could see the entire crater for miles around.
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Some spotted wildebeest and even an elephant or two (although they looked more like ants from the crater's rim). Everyone couldn't wait for the next day when we would be driving into the crater. Most of us called it an early night planning to be the first at the gates to the crater in the morning.
By 6am, everyone was ready to go. After a quick briefing on the rules and regulations of the park and an even faster breakfast, the first group of four cars headed for the crater gate. Only 4 wheel drive vehicles are allowed into the crater for obvious reasons. A very steep road down almost 1,000 metres to crater floor and we were immediately greeted by zebras, wildebeest and buffalo ... herds of them.
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Cameras began clicking nonstop, video cameras ran out of tape and battery in no time. By the time the last group of cars got down to the crater floor at 8am, the first group had already seen at least 3 of the Big Five (lion, rhino, leopard, buffalo and elephant). We drove around the crater floor in our groups of four cars, watching a lion eyeing its most recent kill, flocks of flamingoes, and the list goes on and on.
At lunch time, our guide brought us to a small lake where we had our packed lunch while watching hippos swimming about 50 meters away. My car managed to do about 120 kilometers around the crater floor today, I am sure the others weren’t far off. After lunch we headed off again and managed to find the few elephants found in the crater. Four of the Big Five in one day! The only one to elude us today was the leopard. So after two weeks of looking for animals we finally got our fill, and this is just the beginning! Tomorrow –Serengeti !
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18 July : Zanzibar Island : STONE TOWN BECKONS |
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The team locked their cars and grabbed their bags and headed for the ferry terminal. In less than 2 hours, they were checked in at the Zanzibar Beach Resort for a couple of days of rest and relaxation.
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Zanzibar Island. It’s a long way from home…but strangely familiar. Perhaps it’s all the Arabic, Indian and British influences that is so familiar. Personally, it feels like Penang, but maybe 30 years ago.
Zanzibar Island has something to offer everyone. Beautiful beaches, cultural and historical tours, good food and lots of curio shopping.
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Wasting no time, the team members rented cars and bikes to tour the island and the famed Stone Town. The bike is by far the best way to explore Stone Town’s narrow streets and alleyways. Getting lost in the maze, the team discovered Zanzibar’s many facets.
A historical tour of the Stone Town included a tour of the slave trade facilities, the old Portuguese fort, and an explanation of the many different doors and the meanings behind the carvings.
The doors are a status symbol for many households. Quran passages decorate some doors while other carved images represent things desired in the household such as fish which expresses the hope for many children. Some doors have large brass spikes, which are a tradition from India, where spikes protected doors from being battered down by elephants.
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Many of these houses have their own wells. The residents raise tilapia fish to eat the mosquito larvae, which helps to reduce mosquitoes breeding in the wells.
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Some team members headed for the north side of the island for a quieter time on white sandy beaches. After a second night on the island, the team left Zanzibar for a day in Dar es Salaam. Most of the team took the opportunity to restock their food supplies and to check that their cars are in perfect working order for the next sector of Africa Trek 2003 – Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti.
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16 July : Dar es Salaam : TANZANIA DELIGHTS |
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Welcome to Tanzania! After an interesting time in Malawi, we crossed the border to Tanzania early on Monday morning (14th July). The last two days in Malawi was spent camping along the shores of Lake Malawi after replenishing our food stocks in Lilongwe. Our last night in Malawi was spent at a campsite near Chitemba; coming down the mountain pass, we were greeted with one of the best views of Lake Malawi. It’s hard to believe how big this lake is. At the campsite, Azmi Ismail is very much reminded of his beloved Terengganu.
Since everyone was well rested, Halim, the expedition leader decided to leave early for the border crossing into Tanzania. It was proven to be the right decision as we were waved through both borders with little hassle – thanks also to the hard work of Faruk (Bravo Lima) and Johann (Goose).
As we were early into Tanzania, we decided to push ahead. Instead of stopping in Mbeya, we headed for Mifunda and a campsite called the Farm House – a beautiful campsite on a hill, about 5,600 feet above sea level.
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The convoy heads straight into cold weather and record-breaking
cook times.
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After a long day, the team members set up camp and finished cooking in record time. This was also probably due to the cold and everyone just wanted to get into their warm sleeping bags. I noticed some were in bed by 8 pm! The rest of us just enjoyed the cold night air in front of a campfire.
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Facing another long drive, we woke up early and discovered how cold Africa can get – it was about 5 degrees centigrade this morning! Everyone was trying to get Dr Zaini to finish his daily briefing quickly. Our drive to Dar es Salaam was fairly easy; the roads are quite good but lots of speed bumps on the road and fast buses. These guys can qualify for an F1 race !
In Dar es Salaam we have a few days to recuperate and to visit the famed Zanzibar Island. As we have gained a day by not staying in Mbeya, we will be spending an extra day in Zanzibar Island.
On the way to Dar es Salaam, we drove through the Mikumi National Park, Tanzania’s third national park where yellow baboons are plenty here. We saw our first African elephants, giraffes, impalas and zebras here although we didn’t see the baboons. We had to stick to the road and had only an hour and a half, but we managed to see quite a few animals. Sixty kilometers later, it was all over and we were back on the road battling the speed-fiend buses of Tanzania. |
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A pair of Impalas and elephants enthralled the Malaysians.
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We arrived in Dar es Salaam for a rewarding three nights break from camping. We will go to nearby Zanzibar Island and replenish our food stocks here before we go on safari in the Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti. Everyone is excited to be able to see the animals and we hope to see more in the days to come. |
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